| Lahul and Spiti |
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| Area | 12,210 km² |
| Population | 34,000 (2002) |
| Population Density | 2/km² |
| Literacy | 73.36% |
| Urbanization | 0% |
The modern district of Lahul-Spiti in the state of Himachal Pradesh comprises of two former districts, Lahul and Spiti. Keylong is the capital of the district today. The Kardang village near Keylong was the former capital of Lahul and Dankar was the former capital of Spiti. The district shares an international border with Tibet in the east, a state border with Jammu and Kashmir (Ladakh) in the north, and Kinnaur and Kullu in the south.
Geography
The two valleys are cut off from India, Tibet and Ladakh by high passes. The Rohtang Pass (3,998 m. or 13,117 feet) divides the Spiti-Manali valley leading up from the plains of India from the much dryer country, and largely Buddhist culture of the inhabitants of Spiti and Lahaul.
The Rohtang Pass, though not as high as some, has a bad reputation for sudden storms and deep snow and many travellers have lost their lives while crossing this route. Now there is a paved road across it and all the way to Ladakh that is kept open for most of the year because of its strategic importance.
Potatoes have now become the major crop of Lahaul and Spiti and large quantities are trucked over the Pass into Manali each year, with many foreign tourists travelling to Ladakh each year.
There are also passes from Spiti into southwestern Tibet - but these are now shut as the border between India and Tibet is closed. There is also a good road leading south to Shimla.
Lahaul and Spiti are also cut off from each other by the high Kunzum Pass (4,550 m. or 14,296 ft), which, although it now has a motorable road, is cut off in the winter and often in the spring by landslides and flooding. The main road is dirt and can still be quite treacherous if conditions are poor.
Climate
Lahul-Spiti experiences a very cold climate, similar to the artic one, owing to its high elevation. Between October and early June, it is cut off from most of the world due to the heavy snowfall, causing roads, telephone and electrical wires to malfunction. Tourists are not advised to go there any time between those months. Spiti is very dry and experience very low rainfall. Spiti is too cold to even support much Tundra vegetation, and thus most of its land is barren and wild,including Kaza. The hottest months are July and August, and temperatures very rarely rise above 21 degrees celsius. Lahul itself consists of the Chandra, Bhaga and Baralacha valley and the Lingti plains, while Spiti has the Pin valley.
Kunzum Pass between Lahaul & Spiti.jpg People
Prior to the advent of Lamaism and Hinduism, the people believe in the animistic religion of Lung Pe Chhoi. During its flourishing times, many bloody and even human sacrifices seem to have been regularly offered up to certain 'Iha' that is gods of evil spirits residing in or near old pencil-cedar trees, rocks, caves, etc. Even today, elements of this religion can be seen in the case that Lamas or Bhats are consulted in case of illness, diseases or natural calamities such as droughts or earthquakes. It is believed that the Lamas have special powers of curing illnesses.
The people of Lahul-Spiti who are mainly of Turanian descent, is divided between the Lahula and the Spiti Bhotia:
Lahula
The Lahulas, also known as the Lahulis, as the name suggests, inhabit in the sub-district of Lahul. Having intermingled with the people of the Aryan stock over the years, these people posses a look that is a mix of Tibetan and Indo-Caucasian type, though their tongue still belongs to the Tibeto-Burman family. Sharing a close affinity culturally with the Tibetan and the Ladakhi, the people living in this area have been repeatedly being controlled by the Ladakhis and the Guge kingdom of Tibet, prior to the Mogul invasion.
The Lahulas considered the family as the basic unit kinship. Most of them usually follow an extended family system, an inheritance from the polyandry system of the past. The family is headed by a senior male member who may not always be the oldest male member or the seniormost living member of the family. The head is known as Yunda and his wife Yundamo, who usually attains authority by virtue of his being as the oldest member in the senior generation.
However, in case of his not being able to discharge his functions suitably, the authority is transferred to another senior male member of the family. All senior members of the Lahaula family are highly respected by the others. Their advice is sought on all important matters concerning the family.
The next higher social structure amongst the Lahaulas is the clan, locally known as Rhus. A clan is a unit that divides the community in a valley or a group of villages into smaller groups that form the basis for close relationships. The clan is one of the main considerations for entering into marriages. Important clans of the Lahaulas are Chepapa, Langzipa, Darnapa, Lenchenpa, Khingopa, Mehrupa and Kisingpa.
Like the Kinners in Central Kinnaur, most Lahula worship a mix of Lamaism and Hinduism, though Hindu influence is more prevalent among the Lahuls of the Chandra and Bhaga valleys while Buddhist influence is more prevalent among the Lahulas of Barachala valley. A fantastic example of this is found at the temple of Triloknath near Tandi in western Lahaul, where the idol worshipped as Lord Shiva by the Hindu populace, and is also venerated as the Buddha Avilokateshwara by the local Buddhists as well as pilgrims from Spiti and Ladakh.
Halda is a popular festival of Lahaul heralding the new year. It is celebrated sometime in the month of January or February, the exact date being decided by the Lamas. Halda has the same significance for the people of Lahaul as Diwali has for the Hindu population of the rest of India, and Shiskar Apa, the goddess of wealth in the Lamaistic pantheon, is only worshipped during this festival. Apa is referred to as grandmother.
Like the Hindu festival of Diwali, Halda is a festival of lights, though it is also known as Losar. Although homes are not illuminated, two or three persons from every home will come out holding burning sticks of joss sticks in their hands. They collect at a predetermined time and place fixed by the Lamas. The burning sticks are piled into a bonfire and later thrown in the direction of the Goshal and Khardung villages. Drinking, eating and dancing follows up after that.
Polandry was formerly prevalent among the Lahulas. However, with the advent of modern civilization in these areas, this practise is dying out. It had was evolved over the centuries due to many reasons. A polyandral society helped boost a poor socio-economy. It also helped further fragmentation of the unproductive and meagre agricultural holdings. It helped check population pressure. And finally, the harsh environmental and physical conditions also led to polyandry.
Divorce is not common in this community, though divorces do occur and are accomplished by a simple ceremony performed in the presence of village elders. Divorce can be sought by either partner. The husband has to pay compensation to his ex-wife if she does not remarry.
Agriculture and allied activities are the main source of livehood for the Lahulas. Occupations like these include animal husbandry, daily wage earning as labourers in government programs, regular government service, business (mainly shopkeeping) and crafts that include weaving.
Spiti Bhotia
The Spiti Bhotia inhabit in the sub-district of Spiti, descended mainly from the Tibetan people of the part-Turanian stock. Except with the neighbouring Tibet, Spiti has evolved a form of culture that is unique to the Tibetans, yet very similar. The population of Spiti had to deal with two problems:
1. Arable land was one problem -- not much of it is available in this barren region.
2. The rising population. Unlike the neighboring regions of Lahaul and Kinnaur, Polyandry is not followed in Spiti.
In the Spiti Bhotia community, only eldest son inherits the family property, while only the eldest daughter gets the mother's jewellery. Leaving the younger siblings getting nothing and having to fend for themselves. Many usually fall back on the social security system of the Trans Himalaya -- the monasteries and nunneries. This is one of the reasons why even today religion plays a major role in the lives of the people.
Unlike the Lahulas, they are followers of the Drukpa sect of Lamaism. They are also almost entirely Buddhist. The Tabo monastery, which celebrated its thousandth year old in 1996, has rose to prominence since then.
History
Prior to civilization, this area was largely inhabited by people of settlers from Tibet, though the Aryan element do co-exist, and the local people eventually shaped their indigenious into Lung Pe Chhoi religion, which is similar to the Old Animistic Bön of Tibet, until it gave way to Lamaism and Hinduism in the 8-9th century.This area, which rose to power after the collaspe of ancient India in the 7th century A.D, and for two to three centuries Spiti had local rulers had the title of Nonos.
In the 10th century this area came under the control of the kingdom of Ladakh, ruling well right into the 16th century, when Lahul came under the control of Kullu and Chamba.The rule of the Rajas of Kullu over parts of Lahaul grew stronger in the 17th century.
During the rule of Biddhi Singh (1672 to 1688) in Kullu, the entire upper Lahaul came under his sway. He also annexed the whole Pattan Valley up to the present boundary with Chamba, Thereafter the influence of Ladakh declined, before Spiti came under the comtrol of Ladakh once again for a brief period of time in the 18th century. An official was sent from Leh as Governor, but he usually went away after harvest time, leaving the local administration in the hands of the Wazir or Nono. There was a headman for a group of villages for day-to-day administrative affairs, before Spiti came under the rule of the Dogras until 1846, until Lahul came under the rule of the British East India Company, which placed the administration of the principality under a wazir, which was abolished in World War I. The first Wazir was the head of the Kolong family whose allowances amounted to a fourth of the revenue from Lahaul.
The Lahul-Spiti district was formed in 1960, 13 years after the independence of India. It establish its headquarters at Keylong.
Further reading
- Kapadia, Harish. 1999. SPITI: Adventures in the Trans-Himalaya. 2nd edition. (1st edition 1996). Indus Publishing Co., New Delhi. ISBN: 81-7387-093-4
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